For five seasons, Principal Ava Coleman (Janelle James) has strutted through the halls of Abbott Elementary as if they were her own personal runway. Equal parts administrator, influencer and self-appointed fashion icon, Ava’s wardrobe has become as much a part of the character as her razor-sharp one-liners. But according to costume designer Hachy Mendez and star Janelle James, creating Ava’s signature style is a collaborative process built on color, texture, storytelling and a healthy dose of excess.
“Principal Ava always owns the room,” Mendez tells Deadline during an interview on The Process. “She has very main character energy, so we always tap into that, whether it’s color, texture, silhouette and structure. We always make sure we hit all points within her costumes.”
While Mendez establishes the foundation, James often takes the look a step further once she arrives on set. “I always enjoy seeing what Janelle comes to set with because she does all the last touches in terms of accessories,” Mendez says. “She always finds a way to just take it just that much more over the top.”
James laughs, adding: “People have to see my accessory closet.” The actor revealed that her dressing room is stocked with shoes, belts and earrings that help transform a costume into something unmistakably Ava. “Hachy will bring the outfit, and then I turn it up.”
That collaboration extends beyond aesthetics. Throughout Season 5, Mendez used Ava’s wardrobe to subtly communicate story beats and character relationships. In Episode 3, titled “Ballgame,” where the teaching squad head out to see a Phillies game, for example, Ava and O’Shon’s (Matthew Law) coordinated looks were designed to signal that their relationship had solidified after a rocky Season 4 ending. “It’s the first time you see O’Shon and Ava since Season 4,” James says. “So, I thought it was cute that we matched. Right away, you see that even though things were left in Season 4 a little tumultuous, over the summer we’ve been chilling.”
Another example comes from Episodes 9-11, where the teachers and students have to occupy an abandoned mall while the school is being fixed. Mendez leaned into the emotional functions of Ava’s hardworking personality during a time of great upheaval for the Abbott crew and the students’ parents.
Mendez explains how she deliberately dressed Ava in a structured orange suit to ensure she stood apart from the unsuitable environment. “The inspiration that I tapped into for this episode was making sure she still stood out as Principal Ava amongst the chaos,” Mendez says. “Orange is Ava’s power color. When she wears orange, she’s the ringmaster of a scene.”
As Ava’s wardrobe has grown more iconic, fans have increasingly associated specific looks with the character, from a custom “Baby Girl” Snuggie to bold ruffles and matching sets. For James, that response is proof that Ava’s costumes have become inseparable from James herself. “Once people see it once, it’s become synonymous with me,” she said. “You see a denim two-piece, you see a ruffled thing, they’re like, ‘Oh, Principal Ava.’”
To unpack more behind the scenes looks at Abbott Elementary’s costume design and favorites. Watch the video above.
